Counsel’s Table

Tucked gracefully beside the bright lights and crowds of Eataly is a new shining gem, Baffo, brought to us by the B&B Hospitality Group — celebrity chefs and restaurateurs Mario Batali and Lidia and Joe Bastianich. Having already been to Eataly numerous times, I was expecting Baffo, 44 E. Grand Ave., to open as a self-indulgent, brand-promoting, New York-centric production (a la Il Mulino), with …